More glamour and less drama was the starting point for Haider Ackermann’s spring collection. The history of Ackermann runways has repeated many times – the models and outfits and the whole vision behind it is presented in the most presentable possible way, so the purchases were made at the same moment. The pieces were so beautiful that it enchants you leading to shopping spree. Whatever message was send through the previous collection it was always clear one. This collection was something different from what we have seen so far. It was a bit cold, the focus was only on the pieces and it was strong. His skills and inspiration are mainly framed around being linear, graphic, maintaining some strictness and being straightforward as much was the explanation after the show ended. The accent was on the clothes – designed and executed without a flaw.
The tailoring remained sharp, as he explained before, and the motifs were repeated at several times. The shoulders were big and emphasized, the asymmetry was present as well as some skin, too. A pure example of that is one jacket with side-closure and open back. The bare-skin-pieces are for grown-up women who want to be fancy on elegant events, but do not want to wear gowns. The razor cut on the most pieces gives the desired sensuality. The shoulders were most seen in structured jackets and knits, some off-shoulder, in dresses, tops paired over high waist pants. The color choosing for this collection was kept to bold, but classic colors with the most emphasis on the red, black and white.
The contrast to the colors was shown in casual looks in light blue and pale yellow, mixed with black and white. Not all was cold and sharp, there was some softness too. The knit sweaters that are twisted and stretched around were the comfortable parts of the line, along with blouson tops tucked into trousers with high waist. The overall impression is that the high-chic style was kept. The clothes were high-polished and glamorous. There was an impressive gold-dot jacquard tuxedo, made with weave technique which looked like a treasure.