Many designers found their inspirations in the real women for the spring collections. The Serbian native Roksanda Ilincic, living and working in London, focused on the imperfections and the pre-Instagram age. As she explained, we are all exposed to images, and overexposed to something that is perfect but is not from the real life. Her idea was to go back to the raw basics, when everything was handmade. Then dresses were linen with big sleeves and the women were decorating them as they wanted. This was enough inspiration to get her working a raw material – silk. Sometimes the most unusual or simple things are the most popular ones. In her collection, the simplest looks were the best ones. The show opened with a white dress with a buttons at the front and fringes on the skirt.
Then came long dress in café au lait color that had gather fabric on it. These ones were followed by minimal trouser suits with rope belts, in colors of cornflower and watery grey. Not all was simple. The more embellished looks had connection to the venue when show was held – Serpentine Gallery. This part featured blouses with big balloon sleeves. The long dresses had swirls or fringes and were covered in florals. Some of the dresses were styled over pants and the idea was to loosen the classic black-tie code. The linen coats were chic and swayed perfectly as the models were walking the runway.
The satin shirts and silk dresses in pale yellow and pink, expressed sensuality and sophistication. Structure and form have always been fundamentals of the label, so this collection showed the signature shapes but in a softer and more fluid way. The most attractive and center of the collection part were the sleeves, as Roksanda is really a master of the statement sleeve. They were extra long, dripping sleeves, both on dresses and blouses and they were fabulous. The collection has artisanal lines, it has a soul. The red carpet looks that were presented as the last and closed the show had a dose of soulful glamour. The liquid and looser silhouettes changed the strict ones, but the pieces still maintained her signature style.