Christopher Kane’s new collection is hard-edged one. He combined the traditional fabrics with futuristic silhouettes creating intriguing and strangely appealing designs. The collection fused myriad design elements, starting from historic fabrics all the way through futuristic silhouettes. The message and the inspiration for the designs is clear and clearly shown – tougher femininity. The designs evolve around the practical uniform, transferring it to a fashion piece that a female factory worker might wear, with no frills and mannish shapes. The perfect example of this is the piece of oversized wool coat, with OCD pockets on the sleeves and trench with stripes and wide shoulders.
The fashion show began with an automated machine-age female voice repeating “Process. Process. Process”. It presented the already known Kane’s interests in factory workers and lab technicians. His creativity is great, with a different variety of ideas infused into clothing. For him, one collection can start from traditional pink damask, continue to oatmeal sweaters and end in pointy, strappy heels decorated with grey foam. And there is nothing strange about it. He maintains the angular shapes, but works with feminine silks, floral designs in peaches, pinks and blues. While creating the designs in his studio in Shacklewell Lane, Kane decided, with his sister and the deputy creative director Tommy, that this collection will not accent “a girl” but they will go just spontaneously into choosing fabrics and shapes. At times, it all seemed a bit dizzy.
But it was very spontaneous. There were plenty of different concepts in only one series of looks. It was all in: 3-D flowers, dense panels of sequins and fabrics, turning the attention into quick succession. Designs were glamorous and with industrial touch. One of the most interesting fabrics used was the spaceship print presenting and reproducing the work of NY outsider artist Talpazan, whose works are displaying the obsessional futurism. This proved to be a good marketing, something other designers have not thought before and it was a first. But it ended as a masterpiece of designer’s ideas. He wanted to draw the collection together with combining the modern and the off-hand elements. The overall impression was a youthful vibe, as Kane’s signature style is.