AFTER a decade of taking accessories Oh! so significantly, imaginative designers are lightening up. Having the “proper” bag or sneakers can now be interpreted not by the look of the moment, but by looking for one thing that feels private – or at the least corresponds to a sure spirit.
The whimsical items which might be flying out of the Gucci shops are emblematic of a altering angle. It’s not a case of, “Wow! You bought the ‘X’ bag”, however moderately, “The place did you get that?”
I might not go as far as to say that the lengthy reign of the “It Bag” is over. It began throughout Tom Ford’s reign at Gucci within the 1990s (though Chanel and Hermès may declare that it dates a lot additional back). The brand new millennium pushed garments into the background as accessories continued their meteoric rise.
Considerably, the designer bags of the second are as easy and well-rendered as advantageous furnishings, and the purchasers for the newest from Céline or Saint Laurent are extra like members of a non-public membership than a bunch of show-offs.
Equally, the acceptance of designer sneakers, led by Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Haute Couture, affords one other type of individuality. Why not paint the canvas your self – including a flourish of Swarovski crystals?
A extremely sensible designer can juggle two opposing style components: graphics used for elegant simplicity, and the extra playful facet.
Roger Vivier: Refreshing a Legacy
Roger Vivier’s footwear are a part of style historical past, and designer Bruno Frisoni will certainly by no means abandon his quest to observe the home’s basic fashion via re-inventing the “Viv” silhouette and the rounded buckle that matches ballerina flats. However there shall be surprises in store.
With the 1960s and 70s resuscitated, the designer performed with Mary Quant-style flat daisies and different vibrant designs from the Flower Power period.
Used to embellish platform sandals and clutch bags, the equipment had been modernised with 3D digital printing. However the impact was simply as cool when different platform sandals showed up in denim.
Charlotte Olympia: “I Married Adventure”
Having taken her collections to far-flung locations, Charlotte Dellal admitted that she is a journey junkie, similar to early-20th century American explorer and filmmaker Osa Johnson, who referred to as her memoir, “I Married Journey”.
A “wild cat” print on a high-heeled shoe (positively not for strolling the jungle) and a leopard stretching its physique throughout a flat “Tarzan” sandal have been simply two of the designer’s witty concepts. A leopard-spotted ballet pump even had a pair of scarlet lips on the toe.
Is it Charlotte’s fiery Brazilian blood melded with an upbringing in Britain, the place wit and irony are a part of the design spirit, that makes the equipment appear so unique? Fairly than merely producing a jungle story, which is a trend staple, the designer immersed herself in unique ornament – particularly for baggage. They got here plain, however with leopard clips; or printed with a historic colonial map; and even as a “passport cowl” printed with Bon voyage.
Simply when the repertoire of wit may have exhausted itself, out came Charlotte Olympia Havaianas, the within sole of the basic single-toe sandal revealing a leopard for every foot.